Ingredients

17 to 20 (2- to 3-inch-long) prik haeng (dried hot red chiles), halved and seeds discarded
4 teaspoons coriander seeds
2 fresh lemongrass stalks, 1 or 2 outer leaves discarded (or use reserved bottoms from iced lemongrass tea, page 160)
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
4 teaspoons finely chopped peeled fresh or thawed frozen greater galangal (sometimes called kha)
6 (4-inch-long) fresh or frozen Kaffir lime leaves (sometimes called bai makroot), finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro roots or stems
5 small shallots, chopped (6 tablespoons)
1/4 cup chopped garlic
15 to 20 (1-inch-long) red prik kii noo (fresh bird\'s-eye chiles) or serrano chiles, finely chopped
2 teaspoons ga-pi (Thai shrimp paste)
1/2 teaspoon salt

Special equipment: a large (2-cup) mortar and pestle (preferably granite) or a mini food processor

Directions

THAI RED CURRY PASTE:

Cut dried chiles into 1/4-inch pieces with kitchen shears and soak in warm water until softened, about 20 minutes. Drain well in a sieve.

While chiles soak, toast coriander in a dry small heavy skillet over moderate heat, shaking skillet, until fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes, then cool. Thinly slice lower 6 inches of lemongrass stalks and finely chop.

Finely grind coriander and peppercorns with mortar and pestle (or in mini food processor), about 2 minutes, then toss together with lemongrass, galangal, lime leaves, cilantro, shallot, garlic, fresh chiles, and soaked dried chiles in a bowl. Pound mixture in 3 batches with mortar and pestle until a fairly smooth paste is formed, 8 to 10 minutes per batch, transferring to cleaned bowl. (If using food processor, add about 1 1/2 tablespoons water per batch.) Return all of curry paste to mortar, then add shrimp paste and salt and pound (or pulse) until combined well, about 1 minute.

Cooks\' note:
For the freshest flavor, curry paste is best used the same day it\'s made. It keeps 1 week, surface covered with plastic wrap, chilled.