Seasoning mix:
2 whole bay leaves
2 teaspoons ground red pepper (preferably cayenne)
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 1/2 teaspoons white pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon rubbed sage

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 pound chopped tasso (preferred) or other smoked ham (preferably Cure 81), about 2 cups
3/4 pound boneless chicken, cut into bite-size pieces, about 2 cups
1 cup chopped onions, in all
1 cup chopped celery, in all
1 cup chopped green bell peppers, in all
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1/2 cup canned tomato sauce
1 cup peeled and chopped tomatoes
2 1/2 cups chicken stock
1 1/2 cups uncooked rice (preferably converted)
chicken, tasso, jambalaya

4 ears corn, shucked and halved crosswise
3 1/2 cups low-salt chicken broth
3 1/2 cups water
1/2 lb large shrimp, shelled (reserve shells) and halved lengthwise
3 large garlic cloves
4 medium onions, quartered
1 fresh poblano chile, seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 tablespoons corn or other vegetable oil
1/2 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
3/4 lb andouille sausage, sliced 1/4 inch thick
1 lb okra, trimmed and sliced 1/2 inch thick
4 plum tomatoes, peeled and chopped
2 teaspoons kosher salt
4 scallions, thinly sliced

Accompaniment: white rice
corn, okra, stew

For mustard mayonnaise:
1/3 cup mayonnaise
3 tablespoons finely chopped sweet pickle
1 tablespoon drained capers, chopped fine
1 tablespoon Creole or Dijon mustard

For crab burgers:
1/4 cup minced onion
1/4 cup minced green bell pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 pound lump crab meat, picked over
1/4 cup thinly sliced scallion greens
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons lightly beaten egg
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon fine dry bread crumbs
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
cayenne to taste
vegetable oil for frying

two 5-inch lengths soft-crumb French bread, split and toasted lightly
2 iceberg lettuce leaves, sliced thin
crab, burger, po'